Table Of Contents: How To Blur Background On iPhone

Click any title link below to go straight to that section of the tutorial:

1. Capture Beautifully Blurred Backgrounds Using Portrait Mode
2. Get Closer To Your Subject For Amazing Background Blur
3. Blur The Background Of A Picture In Editing
4. Frame Your Subject With A Dreamy Blurred Vignette

1. Capture Beautifully Blurred Backgrounds Using Portrait Mode

Do you want to shoot stunning iPhone portrait photos with gorgeous blurred backgrounds?

If you thought you could only achieve professional results with a DSLR camera… think again!

The built-in iPhone Camera app has an incredible tool for blurring the background in your photos.

What is this tool?

It’s called Portrait mode.

Portrait mode uses depth-effect software to blur the background of a picture as you shoot it.

The subject will remain in sharp focus… which is perfect for portrait photography.

It’s also great for scenes with distracting backgrounds. Your subject will stand out much better if the background is blurred.

Portrait mode is available on all of the latest iPhones: iPhone 12, iPhone 12 Mini, iPhone 12 Pro, and 12 Pro Max.

You’ll also find it on the iPhone 11, iPhone 11 Pro, iPhone 11 Pro Max, iPhone XS, iPhone XS Max, iPhone XR, iPhone X, iPhone 8 Plus, and iPhone 7 Plus.

If your iPhone doesn’t have Portrait mode, don’t worry! Just skip to Section 2 below to discover how to blur photos on iPhone without using Portrait mode.

1.1 How To Blur Background On iPhone Using Portrait Mode

So, how do you use Portrait mode to blur the background in your iPhone photos?

First, open the Camera app. Then select Portrait at the bottom of the screen.

Ensure your subject is between two and eight feet from the camera. There also needs to be enough light in the scene. (Portrait mode doesn’t always work in low light.)

When you’ve composed your photo, you’ll see a yellow focus box around the subject’s face. The face will be in focus and the background will appear blurred.

When you see the words Natural Light (or Depth Effect on iPhone 7 Plus) in yellow, your iPhone is ready to shoot.

Now, simply press the shutter button to take a picture!

1.2 How To Change Background Blur In Portrait Photos

Did you know you can make changes to the background blur… after you’ve taken a photo?

If you have one of the iPhones listed below, you can easily adjust the strength of the background blur:

iPhone 12, 12 Mini, 12 Pro, 12 Pro Max, 11, 11 Pro, 11 Pro Max, XS, XS Max, and XR.

Open your portrait photo in the Photos app. Then tap Edit at the top right.

Tap the f/number icon at the top left.

Now use the Depth slider beneath your photo to adjust the blur strength.

A low f/number results in strong blur. And a high f/number results in less blur with more background detail.

The Depth slider isn’t available on older iPhones. However, if you’re not happy with the background blur, you can revert to the original image without any blur.

To remove the blur, tap the yellow Portrait option at the top of the screen. The depth effect will be switched off and the blur will be removed. You can switch the blur back on at any time by tapping Portrait again.

While we’re looking at the Portrait mode editing options, let’s take a look at Portrait Lighting (not available on iPhone 7 Plus).

Portrait Lighting lets you add different studio lighting effects to your portrait photos.

At the top left of the editing screen, tap the Portrait Lighting (hexagon) icon. The Portrait Lighting icons will appear beneath your photo.

Swipe across the Portrait Lighting icons (cube icons) at the bottom of the photo.

Natural Light doesn’t modify the lighting in any way. Studio Light brightens your subject’s face. Contour Light adds shadows for more defined facial features.

Stage Light turns the background black. Stage Light Mono is the same as Stage Light, but with a black and white effect. High-Key Light Mono creates a black and white photo with a white background.

When you’ve chosen a Portrait Lighting effect, use the slider to adjust the strength of the light.

When you’ve finished editing your portrait photo, tap Done to save the changes.

2. Get Closer To Your Subject For Amazing Background Blur

Do you want to know how to take pictures with blurred background on iPhone… even if you don’t have Portrait mode?

Here’s a simple trick for getting incredible background blur:

Get closer to your subject.

It’s that simple!

Shooting with the camera close to the subject creates a shallow depth of field.

A shallow depth of field means only a small portion of the image is in focus. The rest of the image will be blurred out.

The closer you get to the subject, the shallower the depth of field will be.

So for really blurry backgrounds, you’ll need to get really close.

However, if you get too close, the camera won’t be able to focus at all. And your subject will appear blurred.

So always check that your subject is in sharp focus. If it isn’t, move a bit further away and try taking the photo again.

For extreme close-up photos, you’ll need an add-on macro lens, such as the Moment Macro Lens.

A macro lens allows the camera to focus at very close distances.

You can take amazing close-up photos of flowers, insects, and nature with a macro lens.

When shooting up close, it’s important to ensure the correct part of the scene is in focus.

You want your foreground subject to be sharp and the background to be blurred.

Luckily, it’s easy to set the iPhone camera focus.

In the Camera app, simply tap the screen where you want the focus to be set. A yellow box will indicate the focus point.

If the background doesn’t look blurred, move a bit closer, then tap to set focus again.

Remember, the closer you get, the blurrier the background will be!

3. Blur The Background Of A Picture In Editing

As you’ve discovered, taking photos with a blurred background is easy.

But what if you don’t capture a blurry background… and then decide the photo would look better if it was blurred?

This isn’t a problem!

Because you can use an editing app to blur the background after taking a picture.

In this tutorial, you’ll learn how to blur the background of a picture using the AfterFocus app.

3.1 Select Your Foreground Subject & Background

Open AfterFocus, then tap Select Photo at the bottom of the screen. Tap on the photo you want to edit.

Some helpful tips may appear on the screen after opening your image. Swipe across to read the tips, then tap the X at the top left to exit.

The first step is to use the Smart Selection tools to select the subject and the background.

Tap the Focus icon at the bottom of the screen. Now, use your finger to draw a line inside the area you want to keep in focus.

You don’t have to be too precise. Just roughly mark out the foreground subject that you want in focus.

Next, tap the Background icon. Draw a line over the background that you want to blur. When you release your finger, the foreground will be highlighted with a red mask.

The red area with white lines is the part of the image that will remain in focus. The black line indicates the area that will be blurred in the next step.

However, before you blur the background, you need to check whether the app has selected your subject accurately.

Is part of your foreground subject not highlighted in red? Or does part of the background appear red? If so, you’ll need to fix this so that only the background gets blurred.

In the example above, you can see that the top of the cycle helmet hasn’t been selected.

You can try drawing more lines to mark the foreground and background areas. But this doesn’t always produce perfect results.

If you can’t achieve an accurate selection with the Smart Selection tools, you’ll need to switch to Manual Selection mode. To do this, tap the Pencil icon at the top of the screen.

Zoom in by pinching with two fingers. Then check the edges of your selection carefully. Use two fingers to drag the image while zoomed in.

Tap the Brush Size icon, then select a suitable brush size for the area you want to select. Now, select either the Focus or Background icon, then brush over the subject or background that you want to select.

Remember, you need to be precise when using the Manual Selection tools. Any area that you brush over will be selected.

If you make a mistake, tap Undo (curved arrow) at the top of the screen. Or switch between the Focus and Background icons to repaint an area you selected by mistake.

When you’ve finished, the red mask should only be on the foreground subject that you want in sharp focus. The neater you make your selection, the more realistic it will look when you apply the blur effect.

When you’ve made a neat selection, tap the arrow at the top right. The background of your photo will now appear blurred!

If you notice a mistake with your selection, tap the single left arrow at the top of the screen. You can then adjust your selection by brushing with the Focus and Background tools. When you’ve finished, tap the right arrow to return to the blur effects screen.

3.2 Customize The Blur Effect

The icons at the bottom of the AfterFocus app let you customize the blur in your photo.

Tap the Blur icon, and ensure Lens Blur is selected. Drag the slider to adjust the strength of the blur.

Below is the edited photo with a beautifully blurred background.

For comparison, below is the original image where the background is in focus. Notice how the blurred background helps to draw attention to the boy.

If you want to add a sense of movement to the scene, you can use the Motion Blur option (instead of Lens Blur).

This is perfect for moving subjects as it exaggerates the feeling of motion in your image.

Below is the image with motion blur applied to the background.

The original photo was taken while the boy was stationary. But the motion blur makes it look like he was moving quickly through the scene!

When you’ve finished editing your photo, don’t forget to save it. Tap the down arrow at the top of the screen, then tap Yes.

4. Frame Your Subject With A Dreamy Blurred Vignette

This next editing technique offers something slightly different.

Rather than blurring the entire background, you’re going to create a blurred vignette around the edges of the scene.

The blurred edges help draw attention to the central focused area. The blur acts as a frame, drawing the viewer’s eye toward the subject.

A blurred vignette also adds a dreamy quality to your photo.

Here’s how to blur photos on iPhone using the free Snapseed app:

Open Snapseed, then tap the screen to open your photo library. Select Open From Device, then tap on the photo you want to open.

Tap Tools at the bottom of the screen. Then scroll down and select the Lens Blur tool.

Two white circles will appear on your image.

Anything inside the inner circle will be in sharp focus. Anything outside the outer circle will be blurred. The area between the two circles is where the image transitions from sharp to blurred.

You can drag the circle to a different area if you wish. Or resize it by pinching with two fingers.

To adjust the blur strength, swipe up or down and select Blur Strength. Then swipe left or right to adjust the strength of the blur.

You can also adjust the Transition and Vignette Strength in the same way.

Transition adjusts how gradually the focused area transitions to blur. And Vignette Strength controls how dark the edges of your photo appear.

When you’re happy with the blur effect, tap the checkmark at the bottom right.

Save your image by tapping Export, then Save A Copy.

Below is the edited image with a dreamy blurred vignette around the edges.

For comparison, below is the original image without any blur applied. Notice how the subtle blurring in the photo above draws the eye toward the center of the frame.

Note that a blurred vignette doesn’t work well on every photo. It tends to work best went the subject is positioned centrally in the frame. And you need to have enough space around your subject to blur the edges.

But on the right photo, a blurred vignette can be very effective!

The post 4 Easy Ways To Blur The Background In Your iPhone Photos appeared first on iPhone Photography School.

Photo by Karyn Teno

1. To freeze the movement of your subject, ensure you have plenty of light in the scene so that your iPhone’s camera uses a fast shutter speed.

2. To blur the motion of your subject, shoot in low light so that your iPhone’s camera uses a slower shutter speed.

3. To create long exposure photos of flowing water or light trails, use a dedicated slow shutter app such as Slow Shutter Cam.

4. Use burst mode (keep your finger on the shutter button) to capture a series of shots in quick succession. This maximizes your chances of having at least one shot that captures the moving subject in the perfect pose or position.

5. Anticipate the subject’s movement, and start shooting in burst mode a few seconds before they appear in the frame.

6. Leave more empty space in front of your moving subject than behind – we call this “active space.” This gives the viewer the impression that the subject has space to move into and allows their eye to follow the direction of the movement through the scene.

7. Capture jumping subjects as silhouettes to emphasize their shape and pose. Shoot with a strong light source behind the subject and reduce exposure to ensure the subject appears as a dark silhouette.

Quick Tips Cheat Sheet

Click the image below to download this handy Quick Tips cheat sheet!

In-Depth Tutorials On Shooting Motion With Your iPhone

To learn more about photographing moving subjects with your iPhone, check out our in-depth tutorials where you’ll discover more great shooting and editing techniques, as well as plenty of inspirational photos!

How To Take Great iPhone Photos Of Moving Subjects by Karyn Teno

11 Ways To Use Burst Mode To Capture The Perfect iPhone Photo by Danny Zappa

The post 7 Quick Tips For Great iPhone Photos Of Moving Subjects appeared first on iPhone Photography School.

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Which one of these photos is your favorite? Please let everyone know in the comments!

How to Enter the Next Photo Contest

Last week we published a tutorial with tips on how to use color more effectively in your iPhone photos.

The article explored how different colors, and combinations of color, affect the mood of your photo and evoke different emotions in the viewer.

Part of the article discussed the use of vibrant and contrasting colors to create vivid and exciting iPhone photos. So the new contest theme is Vibrant Colors, and any iPhone photos that feature vivid, vibrant colors can be submitted.

To participate, simply tag your iPhone photos using IPSVibrant tag on EyeEm. You can tag photos in the description field when you upload them, or when you edit the description of a photo that has already been uploaded (tap the three dots icon to edit a photo).

All photos must be shot and edited on iPhone, iPad or iPod touch. Please upload photos to EyeEm in full resolution and without any watermarks to make sure we can feature them on the website. Please do not submit more than 10 photos each week.

The submission deadline is Sunday, May 3.

The post 30 Great iPhone Photos That Capture Motion & Movement appeared first on iPhone Photography School.

What Makes A Good Moving Subject?

Before we start looking at how to capture great motion photos, let’s talk about what makes a good moving subject for your iPhone photos. There are many different subjects you could use to practice your motion photography.

People are the obvious option. They don’t move too fast and you can ask them to try out different poses and movements. Unless you’re photographing strangers, you can ask the person to repeat the movement if necessary, giving you plenty of chances to get the perfect shot.

Think about the different ways in which you can capture people moving, such as walking, running, cycling, jumping, dancing, sledding, skateboarding, swimming, etc.

Animals are another good choice, although you don’t have as much control over how they move, so it can be a bit more tricky to get the perfect shot first time.

Birds in flight make wonderfully mesmerizing photos, but you could also photograph your pets if you have any. Try capturing a dog in mid-air as it jumps up to catch a ball, or a horse galloping around a field.

Other good subjects are moving vehicles, such as cars, motorcycles, trains and airplanes. Flowing or splashing water also makes for interesting motion shots. Try shooting a waterfall, a flowing river, waves crashing onto the beach, or a splash in a puddle or lake.

On a windy day you’ll find plenty of objects being blown about in the breeze. Try capturing the movement of trees or long grass swaying in the wind, fallen leaves being blown around, or a person’s hair or clothing being blown in different directions.

The aim of motion photography is to ensure that your image captures the movement at the perfect moment. This allows you to tell a story and convey a sense of motion to the viewer.

Now let’s take a look at some of the issues that you need to consider when photographing movement, and how to get the creative results you envisioned.

1. Understand How Motion Is Frozen Or Blurred

When shooting moving subjects with your iPhone, you’ll end up with one of two results in your photo: the movement of the subject will either be frozen or blurred.

If the motion of the subject is frozen, that subject will appear crisp and sharp showing their precise movement at a certain point in time.

For instance, when the movement is frozen by the camera, a person will appear in a clear pose in mid-air during a jump, or the individual water droplets of a splash will be clearly captured.

If the motion of the subject is blurred, the photo will look very different. The background and any stationary objects will be sharp, but any movement will appear either slightly blurred or as a faint blurry streak of color across the image.

Normally you wouldn’t want your subject to appear blurred, but motion blur is a great way of conveying a sense of movement, fluidity and speed to the viewer. If the motion of water flowing down a waterfall is blurred, it will appear with a soft veiled effect as the movement of the water is captured over a period of time.

A speeding train that just appears as colored streaks across your image will create a sense of speed in the photo. In certain situations motion blur can create a more interesting and dynamic image than if the movement had been frozen.

So what determines whether the movement of your subject appears frozen or blurred? The first factor is how fast the subject is moving. The faster the movement, the more likely it is that the subject will appear blurred. So a train speeding past is likely to appear more blurred that a person walking or running.

The second factor is the shutter speed that the camera uses when taking the photo. Shutter speed is the amount of time that the shutter is open when your camera takes a photo. The faster the shutter speed, the more likely the movement will appear frozen. The slower the shutter speed, the more likely the movement will appear blurred.

The amount of light in the scene determines your iPhone’s shutter speed, and therefore how sharp or blurred the moving subject will appear. The brighter the light, the faster the shutter speed will be, and the more likely any movement in the scene will be frozen.

2. Freeze The Movement Of Your Subject

If you want to freeze the movement of your subject so that they appear crisp and sharp, you need to ensure that your camera uses a fast shutter speed.

Remember, the brighter the light in the scene, the faster the shutter speed will be. Therefore, if you want to freeze the movement of your subject, you need to ensure there’s enough light in the scene so that your iPhone can use a fast shutter speed.

Generally, it’s best to take photos of moving subjects during the day if you want to freeze their movement. Bright sun works well, but you may encounter problems with harsh shadows on faces if the sun is high in the sky.

Often the best time to take photos is during golden hour when the sun is lower in the sky or when the skies are overcast but still quite bright.

That said, it is possible to freeze movement when you shoot at night with the right kind of lighting – you just need to ensure your light source is bright enough. Keep in mind that the brighter the light, the better the camera will freeze the movement of your subject and keep it crisp.

However, you also need to take into account how fast your subject is moving. The faster the movement, the more difficult it will be to freeze the motion, even in bright light.

3. Capture Motion Blur

If you want to blur the motion of your subject, you need to ensure that your camera uses a slower shutter speed. Remember, the darker the scene, the slower the shutter speed will be.

Therefore, if you want to blur the movement of your subject, you need to ensure that you’re shooting in fairly low light situations so that your iPhone can use a slow shutter speed. Try shooting indoors, in shaded areas such as a forest, at night, or any other situation where there isn’t that much light in the scene.

In this photo my daughter appears blurred as she’s moving quickly across the scene. Because I was shooting indoors in relatively low light, the camera used a slower shutter speed which enabled me to capture the motion blur of the movement.

When shooting in low light with slower shutters speeds, make sure you keep the camera very still. If you move the camera during the exposure, the entire picture will be blurred because of camera shake. This won’t look good as it will just look like a bad blurry photo. You need the background to be sharp to emphasize the motion blur of the moving subject.

If you’re struggling with camera shake, you may want to use an iPhone tripod and your Apple earbuds as a remote shutter button. This will ensure that the background stays crisp while capturing the movement from your subject.

Shooting in low light is more difficult than shooting in bright light so it might take more time to get the shot just right. If your subject appears too blurry, try introducing more light, e.g. turn a light on, shine a flashlight or car headlights on your subject, etc.

Remember, the faster the subject is moving, the easier it will be to capture motion blur, even in good light. This photo of a train shows that it was traveling at speed because it appears as colored streaks across the image. The closer the moving subject is to the camera, the more motion blur you will see.

4. Use A Slow Shutter App To Create Motion Blur

If you want to capture photos that show even more movement, especially if you’re shooting in good light, you can use a slow shutter app to create long exposure photos. Apps such as Slow Shutter Cam allow you to simulate the effect that you would get if you used a slow shutter speed on a DSLR camera.

Slow shutter apps are great for creating beautiful silky water effects on waterfalls, flowing rivers or waves. The water in this small creek became more visibly flowing by using the Slow Shutter Cam app.

Because the picture is being taken over several seconds, it’s vital that you keep the camera absolutely still. For best results, use a tripod and remote shutter release to avoid blurring the whole photo.

Notice how sharp the rocks and trees are in the photo above – if the camera had moved during the exposure, these details would be blurred due to camera shake. Avoid taking this kind of photo during windy conditions because anything moving in the wind, such as the trees and leaves, will appear blurred.

During evening hours you can use slow shutter speeds to create light trails that show movement. For example, car tail lights trailing into the distance or a person making swirling movements with a flashlight or sparkler.

This photo was taken in my yard using a slow shutter app to capture the light trails of fireflies. I mounted my iPhone on a tripod and used the earbuds as a remote shutter button.

5. Shoot A Series Of Photos With Burst Mode

When capturing movement it’s best to use the burst mode feature in the native camera app. Just hold down the shutter release button on the screen or use the volume buttons on the side of the iPhone to capture a series of shots. You can then choose the best shot from the sequence.

It was a windy day when I was photographing this blossom tree and many of the shots appeared blurred because the branches were blowing around in the breeze. Using burst mode allowed me to take several photos in quick succession and then select the best one from the series.

You could also take a series of shots and then combine them into a collage using apps such as Diptic or Layout. This works really well for jumping shots to show a sequence of movement.

Have your subject count off so that you know when to touch and hold the shutter for a burst of photos. When I photograph my daughter jumping or performing a dance move, I usually have her do the same movement a few times.

She will count “5, 6, 7, 8, jump” and I try to time it by touching my finger on the shutter button just before “jump.” This allows me to capture the whole movement in a sequence of shots.

I then usually select one where she’s in mid-flight on the way up. It makes her look like she’s floating and her dance costume is smooth and unruffled.

To create the illusion of the wind and a flying umbrella, I had my daughter count off when taking the photo below.

As she threw the umbrella, I was able to take a series of shots using burst mode. I ended up with several images where the umbrella was in different positions, and I could then choose the best photo from the sequence.

6. Capture Movement In Silhouettes

Capturing movement in silhouettes is one of my favorite techniques and they’re actually very easy to create. A silhouette is when the subject appears as a dark shape against a brighter background. Silhouette photos are visually stunning and will instantly catch the viewer’s eye.

Silhouettes are best taken when the sun is lower in the sky. People jumping are usually the best subject for this kind of photo as it separates the person from the ground.

Make sure that the light source (sun or bright sky) is behind your subject, then tap the brightest part of the scene in your viewfinder to expose for that area. The subject should now appear dark, but you can make the scene even darker if necessary by swiping down on the screen to reduce exposure.

Capture a series of silhouette movement shots using burst mode, then select the best one from the sequence. In low light situations, keep in mind that you need to hold the camera very still to avoid camera shake.

As well as jumping shots, you could have your subject perform other movements, such as shaking their head so that their hair swishes around, or throwing leaves into the air as shown in the photo above.

7. Use The Wind To Show Movement

Another way to capture motion is during a windy day. Even when the light is at its best and your camera is using a fast shutter speed, the wind can cause clothes or hair to blur.

Sometimes this may not be want you want, but often it can actually enhance a portrait shot. It creates a feeling of movement and shows that the subject is at one with nature.

On a windy day, you can also look out for trees or grass blowing in the breeze. Use these elements to convey a sense of movement in your photos. If the light is bright and the movement is being frozen, use the Slow Shutter Cam app to blur the movement.

Another classic shot is to capture the seeds being blown off a dandelion clock and swept away by the breeze. Swirling clouds in the background can also convey a sense of movement and drama.

8. Leave Active Space

When photographing moving subjects, it’s generally best to leave more space in front of the subject than behind them. This gives the viewer the feeling that the subject has enough space to move into, and their eye can follow the direction of the anticipated movement. We call this “active space.”

When photographing a subject that’s moving across the scene from left to right, position them nearer the left side of the frame with more space in front of them than behind. Likewise, if they’re moving from right to the left, position them nearer the right side of the frame.

If you position the subject on the other side of the frame they’ll look like they’re about to walk out of the picture. Of course you can intentionally break this rule for creative effect, to convey a feeling of speed or to create tension in the image.

I like this shot of a flying robin where it has more space behind than in front. It creates a sense of speed, showing how fast the bird is traveling though the frame.

Rules are made to be broken! But you should learn the rules first, so that you can break them with intention for creative or dramatic effect.

The post How To Take Great iPhone Photos Of Moving Subjects appeared first on iPhone Photography School.

Tell us a little bit about yourself.

Firstly, thanks for this opportunity Kate. To give you some background, I am a university teacher/teacher trainer from Cork in Ireland, working at my local university.

I’m married to a very patient and loving wife, and we have two small children. Sumi-Anna is 7 years old and James is 4.

How did your iPhone photography journey begin?

My main hobby is photography. I had been messing around with photography on and off for years before getting into it seriously around 2009.

The first time I realized the potential of the iPhone as a camera was on a family trip to Asia in 2012. It was a liberating experience being able to get up close to capture street moments.

Being able to process the images and share them with friends and family immediately was incredible. I took hundreds of images on that trip and began to post regularly on Instagram.

When I returned to Ireland and back to posting on Flickr, I discovered there were many mobile photography groups. The quality and diversity of the images inspired me to experiment and explore more.

I’m a believer in the old saying that the best camera you have is the one you have with you, and the iPhone is always with me; always ready. In the past three years, I’ve taken many more photos with the iPhone than my DSLR.

I believe that while the genre at the moment is still called mobile photography, the mobile part will, in time, be dropped. After all, when has a camera not been mobile?

What inspires you to take photos with the iPhone?

My maxim about photography is: “Trying to see what can be seen and how to see it.” I find that I’m constantly framing scenes, always looking for opportunities to get that shot.

Having the iPhone with me is a great advantage. It’s the perfect size. It fits in my pocket and sits in my hand so comfortably allowing me to shoot. I never leave the house without it, so it’s always with me. The days of missing that shot because of not having a camera are gone.

A few years back, I set up a separate Flickr account for my iPhone work. Having this encourages me to build up a body of work just with the iPhone. Any time I post to Flickr, it’s always two images – one with a DSLR and one with the iPhone. Following the iPhone work of my friends also keeps me motivated.

You mainly shoot street photos with your iPhone. What draws you to this genre of photography?

I love people-watching and observing their interactions. If you want to learn about a culture or a people, the best way to do so is to observe them. In public, people can be guarded, but they do reveal. With street photography it’s those moments you chase.

You look for a connection and very often this is a connection to your own condition. It’s a crazy coincidence that we’re all here at this present moment sharing the world and trying to make sense of it all.

I look for stories I can relate to and possibly understand. In many ways, I’m looking for myself on the street – looking for identifiable feelings and connections. Street photography can be empathetic and compassionate. It helps me to learn more about life and more about myself.

You also like to create wonderful abstract images. How do you go about creating these mysterious and intriguing photos with the iPhone?

Intentional camera movement. I point the phone down, and then with an upward swipe I release the shutter to produce the blurred effect.

You can see this technique in action in this short video that was made by the well-know Irish journalist Glen Mulcahy.

Another technique is to keep my finger over the lens and then to release it quickly as I snap. This creates an overall blurred effect on the image.

How important is it to include human subjects in your street photos?

I would say it’s very important. Initially, it could be a backdrop or light that would draw me to a location, but without the human element there’s a location but very often not a story.

Being from a small city, there aren’t that many streets. I’ve found good locations in Cork and often waited for ages for someone to pass and fill the frame.

One of the main challenges with street photography is photographing people you don’t know. How do you deal with this?

I brave it out. With time I’ve become more instinctive as to whose photo I should try to get or not. In my hometown I’m much more reluctant, even afraid. Hoisting a camera and snapping someone can be interpreted as confrontational.

It’s much easier when I’m traveling. Being a tourist gives you a license to photograph and for some reason I always feel safer and braver when I’m traveling.

I avoid shooting homeless people, children or people in evident distress. I prefer people not to be aware of being photographed. I prefer not to intervene so as to capture a candid moment. If it happens that after the shot they notice me, I smile and nod thanks and usually move on.

If I’m met with a welcoming smile, I might offer to show the person or people the image. On occasion, some people have insisted that I delete the image, and I always agree. However, this has only happened a couple of times.

A lot of your photos are taken at night or in low light, which many people find challenging with the iPhone. What tips do you have for taking great iPhone photos at night? 

I had not realized that, to be honest. I always use ambient light, and am not overly concerned with the subjects being crisply in focus. They don’t need to be perfectly sharp to convey a feeling, mood or story. I never use flash. As for tips for using the iPhone at night, just get out there and enjoy yourself.

Congratulations on receiving several Honorable Mentions in the prestigious Mobile Photography Awards! Could you tell us a bit about the recognition you’ve received, and what effect this has had on your iPhone photography?

Thanks! I was really pleased to get six Honorable Mentions across four different categories. While I was initially disappointed not to win a category, I came to realize that it was quite an achievement to get so many Honorable Mentions.

To consider what effect it has on my mobile photography, I can say that there is validation in the recognition and it’s exciting to see my images featured with the great work being done in the mobile photography community.

Of course, it’s all about learning. Reviewing my images now, I do so with a critical eye looking for ways to improve. Doing well in the competition drives me on to try to improve. And as the old saying goes “It’s all about the next photograph.”

Let’s talk about photo apps. Are there any apps that you use for taking photos besides the native camera app?

I’m not a big fan of “apptography.” Over the years, I’ve downloaded a lot of photo apps, but have deleted them very soon after. I tend to keep things simple. An excellent app is Manual. As the name suggests, it allows you to manually adjust the settings in the camera.

Another app that I really love is 1-Hour Photo. This is a fun app that produces really good results. It’s a throwback to the analog days when you shot and had to wait until the film was developed to see your photos.

With this app, you shoot and one hour later you get a notification telling you that your shot has been developed. You can only shoot in black and white with 1-Hour Photo.

What are your favorite apps for post-processing?

The one-stop-shop that is Snapseed, and that alone. I’m a huge fan of Snapseed and nearly all my photos are processed with this app (check out our in-depth Snapseed tutorial).

I usually use Snapseed for conversion to black and white, cropping and some work on contrast. Occasionally, I might freak out and grunge things up. Why not?

Do you use any iPhone photography accessories?

Only a good case. I find accessories, like so many apps, to be gimmicky and limited. I did try an attachable lens once and didn’t like it at all. I’ve heard that the Olloclip lenses are good, but it’s not for me. I like the limitations of the iPhone camera. It makes me try harder.

Can you briefly explain the story and editing behind your three favorite iPhone photos?

It’s hard to choose three favorites, but if I have to these would the three.

The first image I’ve chosen is probably the simplest in form that I made recently. Four feet and four shoes, but three people, cropped just below the knee. One black shoe of a man extending towards a white high-heel of a woman, while on the other side another black shoe stays hesitant.

All the while I sat opposite, about two feet across from them. The woman made eye contact with me as I took the iPhone out. I held it on my lap, lowered it to the level of my knees and composed the shot and got it.

Looking up, I saw she was still looking at me. I nodded. She lowered her head and pulled her feet in towards her seat. The others’ feet shuffled. At the next stop she disembarked.

The second image I’ve chosen as a favorite of mine is this one taken in Copenhagen last year. It’s such a cool location. I’d seen it in the photographs of Thomas Toft, a friend (and a wonderful photographer) on Flickr. He kindly agreed to bring me here when I was in Copenhagen. I converted the shot to black and white in Snapseed.

I was absolutely thrilled when I was learned that the image would be used as part of Apple’s campaign promoting the iPhone 6. I never in my wildest dreams could have imagined that an image of mine would be on billboards all over the world – it’s so cool. I’m so grateful to Thomas for bringing me to this location.

As I said, choosing three of my favorite images is really hard, but if I had to, then the third one would be an image which has a strong personal connection. A very good friend of mine passed away a few weeks back and this image is in dedication to him.

Do you use any other cameras, and if so, when do you prefer to use the iPhone? 

I have two Nikon DSLRs and a recently-purchased Fuji X100T. I love the iPhone for family snaps and videos – it’s so handy.

As for shooting on the street, if I find a good location or scene, I tend to use both the iPhone and a regular camera. For candid street shots, when you want to get in close and do so without being noticed, nothing matches the iPhone. It’s a perfect fit for my hand and so easy to use discreetly.

Do you have a favorite location for taking iPhone photos?

Tokyo and Seoul. Coming from a small city, there’s something so exciting about being in huge world cities. These two cities are perfect for street photography – so many streets and so many people! You can’t help but feel electrified with life in these places.

They may be monstrous cities with so much activity, but the best thing is that they’re so safe and in the times I’ve been there I’ve found the people to be super-friendly. I can’t wait to get back.

What tips do you have for beginner iPhone photographers who want to start taking more creative photos with the iPhone?

Set up a Flickr account and join groups like Mobiography, The App Whisperer and iPhoneography Central. Submit photos and look at those in the group pools. Check the weekly showcases that these sites do. Very often they offer backgrounds to how the shots were created.

Visit their sites for tutorials on how to create images. And of course, don’t forget iPhone Photography School. This is a great starting point for anyone wanting to learn and improve.

But the advice I would give more than any other is to have fun. Photography is a wonderful hobby, and hobbies are about enjoyment. Make photographs of things you love. Make memories.

Which iPhone photographers do you admire the most?

Michael Kistler (@mdkistler) is doing some of the best iPhone work out there at the moment. His work consistently hits the heights. (Check out our interview with Michael).

Shel Serkin (@shelserkin) won the Grand Prize in the Mobile Photography Awards and with good reason – he is just a wonderful storyteller and photographer.

Others I really admire on Flickr are Mark T. Simmons and Janine Graf. On Instagram, Lorcan Finnegan (@lorcanfinnegan), Mimo Khair (@mimokhair), Ade Santora (@adesantora), Laurence Bouchard (@laurence__bouchard), Albion Harrison-Naish (@albionsamson), Lee Thatcher (@leethatch) and Lee Atwell (@lee_atwell).

The list could go on and on. There’s some great photography being created on iPhones.

Where can we see your iPhone photography?

I post all my iPhone photography to this Flickr account. And I also post on my blog: photographicpunctuation.com

The post How Brendan Ó Sé Takes Wonderful iPhone Street Photos appeared first on iPhone Photography School.

Tell us a little bit about yourself.

I’m a professional street photographer from Minneapolis. I lived in Tokyo for many years before recently moving to Hong Kong with my wife and daughter.

How did your iPhone photography journey begin?

I started shooting with my iPhone in Tokyo – it must have been in 2011 – and the obsession grew very quickly. Initially, of course, I was just snapping around a bit, taking photos of my daughter, etc.

But I soon realized that there was no limit to the freedom and the potential for experimentation. I’m first and foremost a street photographer and find the iPhone ideal for this type of photography because of its size, ease of use and the simple fact that it’s always in my pocket.

What inspires you to take photos with the iPhone?

There are many attractive facets to shooting with my iPhone. First of all, there’s a freedom to it that I don’t have with my DSLR in that I don’t have to get bogged down by technical details.

Photography is quite simple when you think about its three main components: light, composition and the moment. With the iPhone I find it very easy to concentrate on these three things with no other distractions.

As already noted, it’s perfect for street photography because it’s fast, easily accessible and can be used discretely when necessary. There are so many moments I would never have had the opportunity to shoot were it not for the iPhone in my pocket.

You mainly shoot street photos with your iPhone. What draws you to this genre of photography?

I love the energy and spontaneity of street photography, especially the challenge of composing a shot quickly in those seconds where everything comes together.

It’s the unpredictability of the street environment that really drives me. There’s always something new, different and very often quirky to be seen and experienced. It’s the fleeting moments that I’m most attracted to.

There’s a unique kind of interaction between the photographer and environment in street photography that I like as well. You can never really separate yourself from your subject matter, which I think is integral to producing good images.

You have an amazing ability to capture incredible light and shade in your photos, with powerful silhouettes and shadows. What’s tips would you give to beginner iPhone photographers who want to start taking these kinds of image?

Well, I suppose the most important thing is understanding how to use and capture light in various situations, so location is very important in this regard.

After finding the right location, it’s a matter of deciding on how to compose your images and what you want to include in your frame. I tend to find that simple is best when it comes to shadows and silhouettes.

Also, it can often be fun to flip your images 180 degrees to achieve a different and often surreal effect. Time of day is also something to consider, as the sun is more direct and shadows longer at different points during the day.

How important is it to include human subjects in your photos?

Absolutely essential. But they don’t necessarily have to be featured prominently and can often be alluded to. In fact, in my work, human subjects are often almost secondary to the scene as a whole.

I like the idea of the people having a more anonymous quality and letting the viewers create their own interpretation and narrative. I love to represent human subjects in more abstract ways through partials, shadows, blur and reflections.

One of the main challenges with street photography is photographing people you don’t know. How do you deal with this?

Definitely. It’s something I talk a lot about when I’m teaching workshops. One of the biggest fears or concerns people have is that someone they don’t know will have an adverse reaction to being photographed.

The first thing I’d say is that it rarely happens. More than anything it’s just a matter of using common sense and trusting your instincts about how to proceed in a given situation. If it doesn’t feel right, don’t do it.

I have essentially three tips for photographers in this situation:

1. Be open about what you’re doing. Snapping a quick shot and then turning away gives people the impression you are doing something you shouldn’t be doing. It creates anxiety and tension on both sides.

2. A smile goes a long way. If I make eye contact with someone I’ve just photographed in the street, I will smile and give a wave, and most of time I will get both in return.

3. Offer to show the image to that person. I find that people are often quite curious to see the photo of them. I will also offer my business card and ask them to email me if they would like a copy of the image.

Let’s talk about photo apps. Are there any apps that you use for taking photos besides the native camera app?

No, I only shoot through the native camera app.

What are your favorite apps for post-processing?

I generally run each image through Snapseed for some basic editing (check out our Snapseed app tutorial). I found that I edited images much more heavily when I first started shooting on my iPhone, but am much more selective about the process now.

I’ve been trying to focus more on getting the right balance of light, contrast and tonal range, so my edits tend to be simple tweaks to get the desired results. In my experience, less is more when it comes to editing.

Do you use any iPhone photography accessories?

I’ve used the Olloclip lenses a little bit, but prefer to shoot straight up with the iPhone. I haven’t really used any other accessories.

Can you briefly explain the story and editing behind your three favorite iPhone photos?

All But Forgotten

What most people don’t know about this image is that it’s a photo of my wife. What’s also cool for me is that she’s carrying our then 6-month-old daughter in a sling, which can’t been seen in the photo.

Of course, I like it for that reason but also because it was one of the first images where I recognized that iPhone photography could really hold its own next to DSLR cameras.

Photographically, it was just one of those serendipitous street moments. She was standing on the train platform in Tokyo as the train was approaching. As soon as I noticed her reflection in the mirror, I got a quick snap before she could turn her head.

As for editing, I think I probably just did some contrast adjustment through Instagram. I wasn’t using any other editing apps at that point.

The B-Side Remix

This is one of my favorite iPhone shots, and probably one of my favorites overall. It was taken in Shibuya (the part of Tokyo where I lived) and has a lot of my favorite elements represented: rain, umbrella, reflection.

As is often a trademark of my style, the subject is not identifiable and the storyline is up to the viewer to create. I like it especially because the mood evokes a dark and gloomy, but also somewhat poetic, side of Tokyo.

In keeping with the mood, I wanted to keep the editing simple. I first used both the drama and grunge filters in Snapseed, but removed any obvious texture so that the various natural layers in the photo wouldn’t be obscured. The square crop was done in Instagram.

Little White Lies

I’ve always felt that Tokyo is the tale of two cities: day and night. For me this image embodies Tokyo by night – colorful, mysterious and intriguing.

I was out in Roppongi and passed by this older and more traditional looking bar. Looking in the window, I really liked the colorful mood and that the scene within could have easily been from many years before.

I shot this photo very quickly and didn’t really have time to give it much thought until later. There’s something voyeuristic that I really like about the image, as though I was getting a forbidden glimpse of another world. I also feel there’s a distinctly cinematic quality to the photo.

I edited it in Snapseed and increased the saturation and contrast to enhance the rich grainy colors. It was cropped square on Instagram.

Do you use any other cameras, and if so, when do you prefer to use the iPhone?

I tend to either use my Canon DSLR or my iPhone, and often use them simultaneously for the same types of shots.

I use my iPhone exclusively when I don’t have any other gear with me, but I often intentionally go shooting with just my iPhone.

You teach urban photography classes in various cities. What’s the one thing that every student takes away from your workshops?

Increased confidence. I really emphasize that the only way to become a more confident street shooter is through repetition and practice. That’s why in my workshops I have students shooting as much as possible while encouraging a lot of dialogue with one another and me throughout.

My ultimate goal is to give them confidence in being able to craft extraordinary images from what might look like an ordinary urban scene.

What are some of the most common iPhone photography mistakes that your students make?

I wouldn’t say it’s a matter of making mistakes – in fact, the more you experiment and try new things, the closer you get to realizing your own style.

I encourage people to find more artistic and creative ways of seeing the world around them, and in doing so they’re bound to try a lot of shots that don’t necessarily work.

I would say the biggest misconception about iPhone photography is that you can’t achieve results similar to shooting on a DSLR. I would argue that all you need is creativity and vision, and the sky is the limit in terms of your imagery.

What tips do you have for beginner iPhone photographers who want to start taking more creative photos with the iPhone?

Get out and shoot. Shooting is the only way to improve your creativity and start moving closer to developing your own unique artistic style. I think it’s also important to slow down and really take the time to observe your surroundings and the many small details that you might otherwise overlook.

And spend time looking at the work of a lot of different photographers. Spend time sharing your work on photo sites and buy some photography books you like. There’s so much to be learned from other photographers, even those with styles different from your own.

Which iPhone photographers do you admire the most?

iPhone photography as a serious art form is still in its early stages, so I don’t have any particularly big names in mind when I think of people whom I like. I have quite a tight-knit group of friends I follow on Instagram, most of whom post every day, and I’m always excited and inspired by the range of creative expression in their work.

A few of my favorites are @mimokhair, @sriarpita, @iphunography, @alessacarl, @zivas66, @namritabachchan, @katochaya, @subsentio and @rayzandvoort.

I admire iPhone photographers who always push the creative envelope. I think in photography it takes a long time to develop a style that’s recognizable and consistent while still being fresh and creative. I’m always striving toward this end and am impressed by anyone who does it successfully.

Where can we see your iPhone photography?

You can see my images on Instagram @mdkistler, on Flickr @mkistler, and on my website: michaelkistlerphotography.com

The post How Michael Kistler Takes Amazing iPhone Street Photos appeared first on iPhone Photography School.

Problem 1: Your Photos Are Out Of Focus

Inappropriate focus in one of the most common reasons why iPhone photos end up blurry. You know the focus is wrong when the important parts of the image are blurry while others are sharp, or when everything is blurry even though there’s abundant light in the scene.

In the photo above, the focus is incorrectly set to the extreme foreground. While the apples in the foreground are in focus and show a lot of detail, the more important human figures are blurry and out of focus.

Most iPhone users don’t adjust the focus themselves, and that works a lot of the time. With that said, there are times when autofocus fails, particularly when your photo has large uniform areas, when some parts of the photo are close to you while others are far, or when the scene changes rapidly.

Interestingly, you’re more likely to experience problems with focus on the newer iPhones, especially iPhone 5S which has a significantly smaller depth of field. While the small depth of field (which is caused by larger aperture) is awesome, it also means that you have to set your focus more carefully.

Solution: Stop Relying on Autofocus

The best thing you can do to avoid out-of-focus images is to always set the focus yourself. Simply tap on the part of the image that you want to be in focus, and your iPhone will take care of the rest.

In this example I tapped on the tennis ball in the foreground, which set the focus (and exposure) on the ball. Notice how the ball is now really sharp, while the building in the background is blurry. You want to make sure that the important parts of the image are in focus by tapping the screen there.

However, even when you set the focus perfectly, the iPhone will automatically try to change it as soon as anything changes inside the frame. This can get quite annoying, especially if you’ve set the perfect focus yourself and all of a sudden it’s lost just because somebody walks into the scene.

Even worse, sometimes the iPhone will try to refocus exactly when you’re trying to take a photo, which is what happened to me in the photo above. I was actually waiting for the woman to enter the frame so that the photo would have an interesting subject, but then the iPhone started refocusing and the moment was gone.

I should have locked the focus, which prevents the iPhone from refocusing when there are changes in the frame. You can lock focus (and exposure) easily by holding down your finger for a couple of seconds where you want the focus to be – a large yellow square and the text AE/AF LOCK appears when the focus is locked.

When the focus is locked, you’ve essentially disabled autofocus and the iPhone won’t adjust focus no matter what happens inside the scene, which is particularly useful when you expect someone to walk inside the frame and you want to make sure that the focus stays unchanged. To exit focus lock, simply tap the screen again.

While it requires more effort to set the focus manually every time you take a photo, it’s definitely worth doing if you want to make sure that your iPhone photos are always sharp.

Problem 2: Camera Shake

Before we discuss the other reasons why your photos may end up blurry, we have to take a step back and consider how the iPhone camera works. Even though we think about photos as moments frozen in time, it actually takes time for the iPhone to capture a photo, and if anything is moved during that time, that movement will result in blur.

When the light is abundant, as it is outdoors in the middle of a sunny day, the shutter stays open for such a short period of time that you don’t have to worry about camera shake. But when there’s less light in the scene (which is almost always the case indoors), the shutter stays open much longer and even moderate movement of the iPhone will be a problem.

To give you an example, the following photo is extremely blurry since I couldn’t keep my iPhone steady. I know this photo was blurred by camera shake because stationary objects both in the foreground and background are blurry as well.

Solution: Keep Your iPhone Steady

Now, what would happen to the same photo, taken from the same spot with the same iPro telephoto lens, if I could keep my iPhone more steady?

As you can see from this example, how steady your iPhone is makes a world of a difference, especially when the light in the scene is not abundant. But what can you do to actually keep your iPhone steady?

The first tip that I have for you is to take multiple photos. Since camera shake is random and unpredictable, it varies a lot between otherwise identical photos. So if you want to make sure your low light photos are less affected by camera shake, take multiple identical shots and some of them will always be sharper than others.

However, there are times when simply taking multiple photos won’t be enough and it’s really helpful to physically support your hands. There are many different ways you can do this. You can support your hands on a table or a railing, or support your entire body against the wall, all of which will make your iPhone more steady.

If no external support is available, try supporting your elbows against your torso, or crouch and support your iPhone on your knees. It also helps to relax and slow down your breath. Many photographers have found that their hands are more steady immediately after the exhalation.

When lighting is abundant, I typically take photos with the volume buttons on the side of the iPhone. However, unlike the shutter button of dedicated cameras, the volume buttons of the iPhone need to be pressed quite hard, and that will almost always lead to some camera shake. For this reason I recommend using the on-screen shutter button or the volume buttons on your white Apple earbuds for taking photos in low light.

If the photo doesn’t have any movement, another great way to stabilize your iPhone is using the Image Stabilization mode that you can find in dedicated camera apps such as Camera+. To access Stabilizer in Camera+, tap on the gear icon next to the shutter button and select Stabilizer. Now the photo will only be taken when the iPhone is steady, which may take a few seconds depending on how shaky your hands are.

Another obvious way to reduce the camera shake is to use an iPhone tripod, but there are clearly some disadvantages to carrying around a tripod with you. I use the Manfrotto 190XPROB tripod with Manfrotto 804RC2 tripod head, which provide great stability but are somewhat bulky. Smaller tripods have been a disappointment to me, which is why I recommend using a serious tripod that could also support a DSLR.

That’s me shooting with a tripod

You’ll also need to attach your phone to the tripod using an iPhone tripod mount. While there are many different tripod mounts on the market, nothing beats Glif+ in terms of how securely the phone is attached. Glif+ is available for iPhone 4/4S, iPhone 5/5S and iPhone 6s/6s Plus. When using a tripod, use the headphone shutter release so that you don’t shake the iPhone when pressing the shutter.

Problem 3: Motion Blur

Just like camera shake, motion blur occurs when movement is captured while the shutter is open. But unlike camera shake, motion blur refers to the movement of the subject itself. Just like camera shake, motion blur is more common in low light settings and practically non-existent in abundant light.

The above photo is a typical example of motion blur. The image itself is in focus and my iPhone is reasonably steady, so the man standing still at the back is perfectly sharp, except for his moving hand. However, the other man is blurry and this blur is caused solely by the fact that he’s rapidly moving through the scene.

Solution: Reduce the Effects of Movement

There are several things you can do to reduce the effects of motion blur. The two most obvious options are increasing the amount of lighting and asking for your subjects to stand still. Of course, these are often not practical, but it’s something you should consider when taking photos of people you know.

Just like with camera shake, the effects of motion blur can be reduced by taking multiple versions of the same photo. If the movements are unintentional, as they often are when taking photos of people you know, they tend to be quite random and some photos will naturally be much sharper than others.

It’s also good to know that motion blur becomes weaker and less prominent if the moving subjects are further away from your iPhone, which is a good option to consider when you have no control over the movement of your subjects.

Finally, you can reduce both motion blur and camera shake by setting exposure for the highlights, which in turn makes the photo darker and requires the shutter to stay open for a shorter time. After you’ve set focus by tapping on the screen, you can adjust the exposure by sliding your finger up or down on the screen. Slide up to increase the exposure (making the photo brighter) or down to decrease the exposure (making it darker).

Even though it was already close to sunset and there wasn’t much light left in this scene, I could still capture a sharp photo of birds taking off by setting exposure for the highlights.

The post How to Never Take a Blurry iPhone Photo Again appeared first on iPhone Photography School.